Restoring the natural environment around a landmark means foodie sacrifice
Mont Saint Michel -- St. Michael's Mount in anglais -- is one of the coolest places in the world, a medieval abbey that to the eye seems to grow from a rock that juts out of the sand on the coast of France.
In the old days the Mount would be cut off from the mainland at high tide, the water even covering the road. It was a major destination for Christian pilgrims, who would take the road or a risky walk across the sand from the east at low tide. In the modern era a causeway was built, allowing tourist-bearing cars and buses to drive to the base of the Mount.
But the causeway hampers the tidal action, so over the years the Bay of Saint Michel (it's the mouth of the Couesnon River) has silted-in. This has created areas within the tidelands that are now rarely covered by the tide. These areas have become meadows.
Because the Mount is a UNESCO World Heritage site, as well as the #1 tourist attraction in France, a project is being planned to restore the bay and tidelands. The causeway will be replaced with a bridge that will allow water to flow underneath and get the natural flushing action going again.
Unfortunately this means we are going to say goodbye to a particular delicacy: the Bay of Saint Michel sheep.
The silt-meadows grow grass that is naturally salty due to the seawater. Shepherds graze sheep on it, and as a result the resulting lamb tastes naturally salty. This lamb -- agneau de pré salé -- has become a highly prized dining experience.
Junk food has given salt a bad name. Fritos are salty. The flavor of Saint Michel lamb is mild, and the salinity complex like the different kinds of gourmet seasalts you find in the stores these days.
But because of the causeway replacement project agneau de pré salé is becoming rare. The sheep farmers know it means the silt meadows will be washed away, and so are getting out of the business. Supplies are shrinking, and prices are going up. One day, Mont Saint Michel's intertidal ecosystem will be restored, but the sheep, a happy accident of man's interference, will be elsewhere. Just regular-tasting sheep.
Mont Saint Michel -- St. Michael's Mount in anglais -- is one of the coolest places in the world, a medieval abbey that to the eye seems to grow from a rock that juts out of the sand on the coast of France.
But the causeway hampers the tidal action, so over the years the Bay of Saint Michel (it's the mouth of the Couesnon River) has silted-in. This has created areas within the tidelands that are now rarely covered by the tide. These areas have become meadows.
Because the Mount is a UNESCO World Heritage site, as well as the #1 tourist attraction in France, a project is being planned to restore the bay and tidelands. The causeway will be replaced with a bridge that will allow water to flow underneath and get the natural flushing action going again.
Unfortunately this means we are going to say goodbye to a particular delicacy: the Bay of Saint Michel sheep.
But because of the causeway replacement project agneau de pré salé is becoming rare. The sheep farmers know it means the silt meadows will be washed away, and so are getting out of the business. Supplies are shrinking, and prices are going up. One day, Mont Saint Michel's intertidal ecosystem will be restored, but the sheep, a happy accident of man's interference, will be elsewhere. Just regular-tasting sheep.
Archived Comment by Jennifer Morrison on October 1, 2008 at 12:01am
ReplyDeleteIn a way there are two positives in this blog...the ecosystem is returning to its nature state and the lamb are not being used for food. I am sure sheep eaters will be sad but I am not. I think this story is a great example of how we can help retract the devastation of the earth and save some animals in the process. Thank you for sharing.
Comment by Jack Morgan on October 1, 2008 at 5:27pm
ReplyDeleteI also am happy that the meat industry takes a blow while the ecosystem bounces back to the way it was so long ago. I wonder if they are going to build the new bridge in a way that doesn't kill the fish.
Comment by Mr_Grant on October 1, 2008 at 7:46pm
ReplyDeleteNotes for readers:
(1) The connection to the mainland was originally a thin natural land bridge which would be covered at high tide; it was transformed into a causeway in 1878, leading to the silting problem;
(2) While I am concerned about treatment of animals in agriculture -- as well as in science and exhibition, I highly doubt the sheep farming in the M St M area is anything like U.S.-style factory farming at the top of the problem list;
(3) as mentioned, the Mont is UNESCO-listed, so I'm sure the bridge design has been vetted in multiple ways. Here is an excerpt from a description of the project:
"A pedestrian bridge to take you across the sands
Blending in with the level features of the landscape, a pedestrian bridge which its designers call a "jetty" will cross the Couesnon and the sands. Just a line, barely visible from a distance, it will stand on a row of thin piers leading to the earth platform and the Mont...
Visitors will leave their cars at the parking facility, and then enjoy the peace and quiet as they cross the salt meadows for a kilometre along the redesigned causeway, either on foot or in the shuttle.
Coming off the road onto the pedestrian bridge will be smooth, with no break. Pedestrians will walk on either side of a central reservation used by the shuttles which is a few centimetres lower.An oak floor - like a jetty floor - will mark out the pedestrian areas. Over time it will weather to a grey colour as wood does in sea water...
European design competition prizewinning team: Feichtinger Architects, Dietmar Feichtinger, Architect, Paris / BET Schlaich, Bergermann & Partner, Stuttgart."
4. Major work has been underway for 2 years on a high-tech "hydraulic dam" (technically, aren't they all?) to let the tide go up river and filter the silt.